TL;DR
- Agreed value = you and the insurer agree on a fixed payout amount upfront. You always receive that amount after a total loss, no depreciation.
- Stated value = the insurer pays whichever is lower: your stated value or actual cash value at the time of claim. This is almost always less than you expect.
- For any modified or collector car, agreed value is the only policy worth having.
- The difference in premium between agreed and stated value is typically 10–20% — a small price for guaranteed full payout.
- Some mainstream insurers market stated value policies as “agreed value.” Read the policy wording carefully.
When you call an insurer about covering your $55,000 build, you’ll hear two terms repeatedly: agreed value and stated value. They sound similar. The gap between them — when it matters most, at claim time — can be tens of thousands of dollars.
Understanding the difference between these two valuation methods is one of the most important things a modified car owner can do. It determines not just how much you’re paid after a total loss, but whether you’ll be made whole at all.
Agreed Value Insurance: How It Works
Under an agreed value policy, you and your insurer agree — in writing, at policy inception — on the exact value of your vehicle. This figure is called the agreed value or insured value. It represents what the insurer will pay you in the event of a total loss, without deductions, depreciation adjustments, or arguments about market value.
The process works like this:
- You provide documentation of your car’s value — purchase price, modification receipts, professional appraisal if applicable
- The insurer reviews your documentation and either accepts or proposes a revised agreed value
- Both parties sign off on the agreed value, which is written into the policy declarations page
- If the car is totalled, you receive exactly that amount, minus any applicable deductible
The key word is agreed. Both sides have committed to the number before anything happens. There is no ambiguity at claim time. Hagerty, Grundy, and other specialist modified car insurers use agreed value as standard because it’s the only approach that makes sense for vehicles whose value is determined by their modifications, not their model year and mileage.
Stated Value Insurance: The Critical Difference
Stated value sounds similar but operates very differently in practice. Under a stated value policy, you declare the value of your car (the “stated value”), and the insurer notes this figure. However, the policy wording typically contains a clause that pays whichever is lower: the stated value or the actual cash value (ACV) at the time of loss.
Actual cash value is calculated using standard depreciation schedules — the same formulas used for standard auto policies. For a modified car, this calculation is deeply problematic:
- Depreciation schedules assume the car loses value over time, which is the opposite of what happens to well-built collector and performance vehicles
- The base vehicle’s age and mileage are weighted heavily, while modifications are valued conservatively or excluded entirely
- The insurer’s adjuster, not you, determines ACV at the time of the claim
“We’ve seen stated value policies pay out 40–60 cents on the dollar for modified vehicles. The owner thought they were covered at $65,000. The adjuster calculated ACV at $28,000 and that’s what was paid.” — Insurance industry veteran, quoted in Hemmings Motor News
A Real-World Comparison
Consider two owners with a 1969 Camaro, each investing $55,000 in a full restomod build: LS3 swap, modern brakes and suspension, custom interior, paint, and tuning.
Owner A has an agreed value policy at $55,000. The car is totalled in a garage fire. Owner A receives $55,000 minus their $500 deductible: $54,500.
Owner B has a stated value policy with $55,000 stated. The same fire totals the same car. The insurer’s adjuster calculates ACV using depreciation tables applied to a 1969 Camaro: base vehicle market value is estimated at $18,000 (a stock 1969 Camaro in similar condition), and modifications are valued at a conservative $9,000. ACV: $27,000. Owner B’s policy pays out $27,000 — less than the cost of the engine alone.
This is not a hypothetical edge case. It’s a predictable outcome of how stated value policies are written, and it’s why collector and modified car specialists uniformly recommend agreed value coverage.
How to Identify Which Policy Type You Have
Confusingly, some insurers use “agreed value” in their marketing while their policy wording contains stated value or ACV provisions. The only reliable way to know is to read the actual policy document, specifically:
- The declarations page — look for “agreed value,” “guaranteed value,” or “stated value” in the coverage description
- The loss settlement clause — this is the provision that governs what happens at total loss. Look for language like “whichever is less” (bad) or “the agreed value shown in the declarations” (good)
- The definitions section — how does the policy define “agreed value”? Some policies define it as agreed-at-inception (good) while others define it as a ceiling on ACV claims (bad)
If you’re unsure, ask your insurer in writing: “In the event of a total loss, will I receive exactly the insured/agreed value stated in my declarations page, regardless of the vehicle’s current market value or depreciation?” A genuine agreed value policy will yield an unequivocal yes.
Agreed Value for Partial Losses
One important nuance: agreed value typically applies to total loss claims. For partial loss (damage that doesn’t total the vehicle), both agreed value and stated value policies generally pay the cost of repair, subject to the deductible. The agreed value distinction becomes critical primarily at total loss.
However, modification coverage for partial losses matters too. Under a specialist policy with a full modification schedule, repairs that damage covered modifications are reimbursed at the cost to restore the modification. Under a standard policy, that aftermarket supercharger damaged in an accident is simply not covered.
What Agreed Value Costs
The premium difference between an agreed value and a stated value policy from the same insurer is typically 10–20% on the annual premium. On a $1,400/year base premium, that’s $140–$280 extra per year for the guarantee that you’ll be paid in full after a total loss.
For most build owners, this is an easy decision. The downside risk of a stated value policy — receiving half or less of your build’s value after a total loss — far outweighs a few hundred dollars per year.
Specialist insurers including Hagerty, Grundy, and American Collectors offer genuine agreed value as their standard product. Compare their policies and pricing →
Frequently Asked Questions
Is agreed value the same as guaranteed value?
These terms are often used interchangeably and generally refer to the same concept: a fixed payout amount agreed at policy inception. “Guaranteed value” is a marketing term used by some insurers (Hagerty uses it) to emphasise the unconditional nature of the payout. Always check the policy wording to confirm the payout is truly fixed rather than subject to ACV adjustments.
Can I get agreed value insurance on a car I use daily?
Most agreed value specialist insurers impose mileage restrictions (typically 6,000–15,000 miles/year) because agreed value policies are designed for vehicles driven less than average. If your modified car is a daily driver, you may need to look for specialist insurers offering higher mileage allowances, accept a mileage cap and keep to it, or consider a standard policy that includes modification coverage (accepting the stated/ACV limitation at total loss).
How often should I update my agreed value?
Review your agreed value annually and update it whenever you make significant modifications or if the market value of comparable builds has changed. Collector and modified car values have risen substantially since 2020 — a build you insured for $45,000 in 2021 may now be worth $65,000+ to replace. Under-insuring at an outdated agreed value means you won’t be fully compensated even with an agreed value policy.
What documentation do I need to get agreed value coverage?
Typically: a detailed modification list with costs, receipts for major parts and labour, photographs (exterior, interior, engine bay), and for high-value builds, a professional appraisal from an AAAA-certified appraiser. The more documentation you provide, the easier it is to justify the agreed value you’re requesting and the faster your claim will be processed if you ever need it.




Leave a Reply